Ferrari and McLaren Must Face Reality in 2009

The penultimate moment of the 2009 Formula One season is upon us with the Spanish Grand Prix. This is the race when teams introduce their big changes after the diffuser debate was decided in favor of allowing the double diffuser. All indications are Ferrari and McLaren have made no jump forward.
Juan Pablo Montoya has always been highly thought of as a driver, but has nearly always been a disappointment. That being said, he did say one accurate thing following his move to NASCAR from Formula. He noted that NASCAR was different because you had the ability to improve an uncompetitive car to the point where you could race for wins and be competitive in NASCAR. A bad car, in his view, was a bad car for the season in F1. He was definitely on point.
The 2009 season finds us with the two best teams caught with their pants around their ankles. The McLaren and Ferrari cars are slow. McLaren appears to be a bit faster than the Italians, but neither car has any realistic hope of finishing on the podium. The teams are solid and have good drivers, but the end of the 2009 season is nigh and they are kidding themselves if they think it is anything other than a fact.

The first race of the European season is upon us with the Spanish Grand Prix. The teams have moved forward with major changes in an attempt to catch the front runners. The effect? Ferrari and McLaren have spent the first two practices driving in the double digit positions – 11 through 20th. While they could certainly be sandbagging, the facial expressions and comments from the drivers indicate it is going to be another long weekend for the teams.
The question now is what should occur? Should the teams continue to develop the cars for 2009 in an attempt to be competitive? The answer is found in the comments of Montoya. The cars are dogs now and they will be dogs in another 10 races. Any advances made by Ferrari and McLaren will just be matched by Brawn GP, Red Bull, Toyota and so on. The lack of in season testing further nails down the fate of McLaren and Ferrari.

The 2009 season boils down to a Red Bull versus Brawn GP championship. Oh, joy. Unless it rains at every race, Brawn GP are your constructor’s champions and Jenson Button is World Champion. After three seasons of exciting racing, this is where the changes of the FIA have left us. The season is decided after only five races.

Guide To Change Your Car's Battery

To keep up with your vehicles maintenance it is very important to keep up with a couple things. You want to make sure you take care of your vehicle because if you don’t it will not last as long as it should. You can run your vehicle a long way if you keep up with your vehicle’s maintenance. There are a few things that you need to take care of and change every so often. One of these things is your car’s battery. Changing your car’s battery is something everyone has to do. All vehicles are different and need different batteries. If your car has been running funny and it isn’t easy for it to start you may need to change the battery. Not sure how to change your vehicle’s battery? Read below and you will learn how to do it yourself in no time.
Benefits for learning how to change your vehicles battery: You don’t have to worry about any inconvenience that comes with changing your car’s battery. You don’t need to take it to the shop and follow the hours that the auto mechanics have. Also you can save a ton of money by learning how to do it yourself.
Step by step instructions for changing your car’s battery:
1. First of you all you will want to think about recycling your car’s dead battery. Recycling is a great thing to do.
2. Now make sure your vehicle is turned off and that your car is in park.
3. Lift your car’s hood and look for the battery.
4. Once you’ve spotted the battery you will want to disconnect the cable terminals.
5. Not sure what the cable terminals are? Look for the cables that are black and red (negative and positive).
6. Now you want to dismantle the bracket or frame that holds the battery into position.
7. Once you’ve dismantled them, your battery shouldn’t be tied down. You should be able to take out your car’s battery.
8. Once you see your cable terminals, you can determine whether they are dirty or dusty. If they are you will want to wipe them with water, a wire brush and baking soda.
9. Take a wire brush and graze the inside of the cable terminal. You will want to do this because once you place the new battery in the spot you want to expose the new cables to clean metal instead of dirty.
10. Now place the battery into your vehicle. Make sure you connect the negative and positive cables to the battery. (Note: If they can move easily they aren’t tight enough.)
11. You should be all set. To test your new battery, turn on your vehicle and see if it starts. If it doesn’t star t the first time just go through the steps again and see what mistakes were made.
Changing your vehicle’s car battery is very easy. Changing a battery may sound intimidating but it is really easy. When your vehicle acts up most people just take it to the shop regardless. You want to avoid doing this because you can save a ton of money and learn a few things.

Used Car - Value Buy

The path to buying a reasonable used car is littered with buyers who didn't follow simple and straightforward advice and ended up with some absolute lemons. There are pitfalls that are easy to avoid once you know about them, and there are also lots of other things that you need to do before parting with your cash for a second hand motor.The first thing to do is your research! Find out the average selling price of the vehicle you are after. Bear in mind that condition and mileage can affect the value of the vehicle, as can its involvement in an accident. So do ask "Has this car been in an accident? Is it a reconstructed car?" These are very important questions as the performance, reliability, safety and value of cars can be affected by either of these.How to finance your carVery few of us are in a position to be able to pay cash to buy the car of our dreams, so what other alternatives are there?

The most common method of buying a used vehicle is by taking out a car loan. The crucial thing to consider when you take out a car loan is how much interest you will pay. Basically, the higher the APR (Annual Percentage Rate) the more you will pay in interest. The percentage APR that you will pay tends to be tied very closely to your credit score; i.e. the higher your credit rating the lower the APR you will have to pay. Of course, loan firms will try to get the highest rate for their products that they can, so as well as shopping around for your car, you should also shop around for your car finance. Also remember that the longer the term of the loan the more you will be paying in interest, make sure you can comfortably afford the monthly payments and have money spare to maintain and run your vehicle. Caveat Emptor - Buyer beware!There's an old legal saying that has its basis in Latin when it comes to buying goods - caveat emptor; it means "buyer beware" and the advice still applies today, especially if you are going ahead with a sale from a private individual and not through a garage.

Most reputable second hand car dealers offer warranties and guarantees when you buy a used vehicle from them, so if something goes wrong you can go back to the garage. Dealer prices tend to be higher to incorporate those guarantees as well as their profit margin. However, if you buy from a private individual you have limited protection. But, there are a lot of bargains out there and the best thing before you buy from a private individual is to take along a mechanic who can give the car a once-over and put your mind at rest on its mechanical reliability. Hopefully, you will avoid buying a lemon if you follow our top tips on buying a used car!

Free Tips on How to Clean Your ABS Wheel Sensor - Get Better Braking System

Does your ABS light come on consistently and you do not know what is wrong! Well, when you check your code, you may see that it says that your front wheel sensor is damaged. However, that is not always the case. A lot of times, your ABS wheel sensor is just fine; they just need to be cleaned. Of course, if you take it to a shop, they are going to tell you that you need a new one. So we are going to go over how you can clean your own ABS wheel sensor in your Toyota and save yourself a lot of money. After you clean it, if you are still having the problem, you will need a new one. However, most people have noted that nine times out of ten, this does indeed fix their problem.
First of all, before you get started, you are going to want to make sure you have everything that you need to perform the job. The only things that you are really going to need are a ratchet, jack, wheel lock and, of course, a rag or paper towel to clean it off with. After you have all of this stuff, you can feel free to get started. This should only take you an hour or two to do yourself.



Getting Started On Your Wheel Sensor
First, you have to choose which side you want to get started on. You can choose either the passenger side or the driver side; it does not really matter. However, whichever side you do choose, that is the side that you, of course, need to jack up first. Before you jack up the car, you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that you are working on. For example, if you are working on the driver side, then you are going to want to turn the wheel to the passenger side. Also, when you get it jacked up. You should use a jack stand, not just the jack. You never know how long you will need to have this car jacked up, so you will want the jack stand.
After you turn the wheel and get everything all set up, you will notice that you should be able to locate the ABS wheel sensor very easily. It should be located directly mounted to the knuckle. To take this off, you are going to have to remove the two bolts that are holding them in place. In most Toyota cars, they are 10mm bolts. However, some of them can change from time to time. Overall, there will be about four bolts you have to take out. To do this, just follow the ABS sensor around so that you can remove all of the bolts. When you get the sensor off, you will notice that it is all covered in dirt. Take your rag or paper towel, and start whipping it off. As you do, you will notice that the very middle of it has a sliver strip that you could not see before. A lot of times, dirt blocks this and can cause problems, as you found out. After cleaning it, simply reverse the steps you did to reinstall it. Also, be sure to check both of the front ABS sensors. The one on both sides of the car!
Still Having Problems
Most of the time the procedure discussed above will fix any problem that you are having with your ABS sensor. If you have cleaned both of the front sensors and there are still problems, then you do have a damaged ABS sensor. At this point, you need to get new ones and replace them. If you want, you will be able to install them the same way you cleaned the other ones. However, instead of cleaning the old ones and putting them back on, you can simply put on the new ones. Overall, this is a one day job that can save you a ton of money. Most people do not notice how much money that they can save by doing this themselves until they actually do it!

Free Guides on Brakes Shake - Machine the Rotors Or Replace Them?

If the steering wheel shakes when the brakes are applied, the brake rotors most likely have excessive side to side run-out or they are more commonly known as being warped. Auto techs call this brake shake or brake pulsation. Brake rotors being warped is not a dangerous condition by itself, but it can be very annoying. The brake pads may not need to be replaced, but if they are more than half worn it would be a good time to consider replacing them. Most shops will check brakes for free, it's best to make sure they use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the rotors to verify if they are legally able to be machined (also known as turned or resurfaced).
Replace or not.



Many vehicles today have very thin rotors from the factory, depending on the thickness there may not be an option to machine them. Many replacement rotors are low priced depending on the make and model of the vehicle. It may be a good idea to replace the rotors if the replacements are priced well, instead of machining the old ones. After machining the rotors they are physically thinner and more susceptible to being warped again. In the past I owned a vehicle that warped rotors frequently. I would machine them myself using the brake lathe at the shop I worked at and the rotors would warp again in about six months time. I finally bought some aftermarket replacement rotors for around $30 a piece and put those on and never had anymore pulsation problems.
Types of Brake Lathes. There are two types of brake lathes. There is the conventional brake lathe that the technician uses to machine the rotor off the vehicle. And there is the on the car brake lathe used to machine the brake rotor on the vehicle. The best way to machine brake rotors is on the car. The reason is because of the possibility of other components having run-out. When rotors are machined on the car, any run-out in the wheel hub is compensated for. The result is a much better cut that allows the rotor to be machined much more precisely. Rotors that are machined on the vehicle have less re-occurrences of being warped as quickly when compared to rotors being machined off the vehicle. So if possible consumers should opt to find a repair shop that has the capability to machine rotors on the car if needed. Auto repair shops that have on the car brake lathes realize the importance of having the right auto tools and equipment to service their customer's cars properly.

Free Guides on Volvo Head Gasket

Among the many complicated parts of a car, one should always be knowledgeable in managing and handling all of them. Who drives a car without knowing where his coil springs are located? And what is an oxygen sensor? How about the head gasket? Because most of the car's compression is caused by a good head gasket. One can not just run a vehicle without thinking about his car's good compression.

Volvo, the Swedish genius behind the evolution of modern cars today, is continuously innovating its technology to better serve its loyal patrons. They are responsible for most of the production of trusted quality car parts, and they make it easier for drivers to locate their coil springs, oxygen sensors and head gasket. How? Because these parts are sure to function without fail.
Among the best-in-class products of Volvo is the Volvo Head Gasket. The Volvo Head Gasket is a gasket between the engine block and cylinder head in an internal combustion engine. Its purpose is to seal the cylinders to ensure maximum compression and avoid leakage of coolant or engine oil into the cylinders.
There are three types of Head Gaskets with different makes. There is an MLS gasket or a Multiple Layers Steel which could be commonly found in most modern head engines. These typically consist of three layers of steel. Another one is the Solid Copper. A solid sheet of copper, and typically requires special machining called "o-ringing" that places a piece of wire around the circumference of the cylinder to bite into the copper. Last is the Composite, which is an older technology made from asbestos or graphite, but is becoming rare nowadays because it is more prone to blowouts.
Sometimes, the compression in the cylinder may cause a leak to form in the gasket, usually referred to as a “blown” head gasket. Fortunately, this will be a rare occurrence when a car is hooked up with the Volvo Head Gasket. Because for nearly 80 years of service, Volvo is almost sublime.

Great Hydraulic Pressure - Volvo Master Cylinder

Every car needs a provider of great hydraulic pressure in order to maintain the efficiency of the hydraulic system. Not every driver or car owner knows what his master cylinder does for him and his car, when in fact it should be well-known. The master cylinder contributes well to the safety of the driver. Even if the primary and secondary cylinders should have a leak, the master cylinder acts alone to ensure that enough pressure will still be available when the driver steps on the brakes.
Fortunately, there is a company that understands the grave importance that the master cylinder has. Volvo, one of the world's genius in the automotive history, has developed the advanced technology that a high quality master cylinder should be made of. Thus, the Volvo Master Cylinder is of high quality and great performance.

The Volvo Master Cylinder supplies pressure to both circuits of the car. It is a remarkable device that uses two pistons in the same cylinder in a way that makes the cylinder relatively failsafe. Meanwhile, it is the combination valve that warns the driver if there is a problem with the brake system, and also does a few more things to make your car safer to drive. The Volvo Master Cylinder has a brake-fluid source, which is called the brake-fluid reservoir. It also has an electrical connection which is a sensor that triggers a warning light when the brake fluid gets low.
When a driver presses down the brake pedal, it pushes on a primary piston through a linkage. Pressure builds in the cylinder and lines as the brake pedal is depressed further. The pressure between the primary and secondary piston forces the secondary piston to compress the fluid in its circuit. If the brakes are operating properly, the pressure will be the same in both circuits. That is how the Volvo Master Cylinder operates.
Since it is exposed to such an arduous task, it is also vulnerable to wearing out. Although this will happen after a very long time with the Volvo Master Cylinder, one should always ensure that it is replaced or taken care of by a professional. And one must do away with the old, unreliable ones, and trust the name of Volvo. Because with 80 years of service, Volvo knows what is best.

Pumping Fuel Into The Engine - VW

Volkswagen thrives on its class, simplicity, and economy. These attributes are reflected on its vehicle designs. For example, basic VW automotive architecture involves having the fuel tank located in a car's opposite end off the engine. Because of this distance, a specially-designed, yet fundamentally-constructed VW fuel pump is needed to draw the gas toward the engine. There are two kinds of VW fuel pumps: the mechanical fuel pump, used in carburetor-run older VW models like Brasilia and Combi, and the electric fuel pump, used in the more recent, electronically fuel injected (EFI) cars.

Electric fuel pumps, the ones used by VW today, are almost always located inside the gas tank. This helps prevent vapor lock and keeps the fuel pump to a low and controlled temperature. The VW fuel pump is a turbine type hydraulic unit directly linked to a permanent magnet motor. This motor uses the fuel as its lubricant and coolant. Electric fuel pumps are used in EFI engines because they can produce high pressures needed for proper fuel management. An electric VW fuel pump is typically capable of putting out about 90 pounds per square inch (psi) of fuel pressure. A check valve is included in the fuel outlet to hold pressure when the pump is not running. Another valve, the pressure limiter, is located at the pressure side of the fuel pump housing, with a return passage to the fuel inlet side to keep fuel pressure within the prescribed specifications.
As the rotor disc rotates, the rollers are pressed outwards by centrifugal force and act as a circulating seal. The circulating rollers, in turn, creates a pumping action drawing in fuel at the inlet port and forcing the fuel through the outlet port and into the fuel system. When the pump is shut off, the check valve in the fuel outlet closes, therefore prohibiting the fuel from returning to the fuel tank through the fuel pump. The check valve therefore maintains pressure in the fuel lines called the "rest pressure." Maximum fuel pump pressure depends on the calibration of the pressure limiter. In a clogged fuel filter, for example, the fuel pump pressure exceeds a preset limit, resulting to a by-pass opening to the fuel inlet side of the pump by the pressure limiter.
Fuel pump failure is not uncommon, particularly in cars with electronic fuel injection. Usually, when a fuel pump fails, a car will simply sputter and die, and will not restart. Essentially, a car with fuel pump failure will act like it is out of gas, even when there is gas in the tank. Fuel pump failure can be verified by checking the fuel delivery end of the system -- if no fuel is being delivered to the engine, the fuel pump has most likely failed.
Replacing an electronic VW fuel pump can be really tricky. The fuel pump is usually mounted along with the fuel tank sending unit. Care must be taken when removing the pump/sender assembly so as not to damage the sender unit. Some vehicles have an access panel to get to the fuel pump without having to drop the tank. VW generally does have these panels. Some cars require a special tool to disconnect the fuel lines. Other cars have an access panel in the interior of the car that can be removed to reach the fuel pump. Still other vehicles require the fuel tank to be siphoned and removed, or dropped, before the fuel pump can be accessed. The latter type of car usually makes for the most laborious job of replacing a fuel pump. Arduous the changing of a fuel pump may be, but with this lies the car's efficient fuel intake.

Types and Styles of Brake Lathe Repair Systems

Replacing drums, rotors, and other sections of the braking system can be an expensive venture. One of the best ways to lower this cost is by doing a brake lathe repair that resurfaces these items to restore their effectiveness. Brake lathe parts and machines are available that can repair all different styles and fix a variety of problems, including sticking and noise. Whether you are an at-home mechanic or working in a professional repair shop, these systems allow you to achieve the highest quality repair. Many different styles and models exist to help you reach this goal.
Bench Brake Lathe Repair Systems

Bench type models require you to remove the drums and rotors from the vehicle in order to repair them. These are commonly found in private and commercial settings. To use these systems, you only have to set the part into the machine and start the cutting process. With a high quality machine and practice, you can produce parts that are equivalent or even better quality than the original piece. The brake lathe parts, known as adapters and mounting cones, determine the majority of the quality. If you are looking for the best quality, these are the brake lathe parts that you want to be careful about selecting. If they begin to wear, replace them immediately.
With bench units, you have the option of single, variable, or high-speed styles. Digital measuring and printouts are another great option for achieving the best possible results. Some of these repair machines are designed specifically for rotors or drums. Other units can repair both, which is a huge advantage over the second type known as an on-car system.
On-Car Brake Lathes
A great addition to bench styles is on-car brake lathe repair systems because they allow the work to be performed directly on the car. One of the biggest benefits to this style is that there is no risk of wrecking the hub or wheel bearings because all of those parts can be left in place. They are also known for their ability to reduce the risk of runout on the rotor and uneven surfaces.
This type of system attaches in one of two ways. One style, called a caliper mount, attaches directly to the knuckle where the caliper mounts. On the down side, it requires some movement in the wheel bearing which means you may need to tighten adjustable styles. A hub-mounted style is also available. It can produce the same level of quality, but has similar issues to caliper-mount versions.
The biggest downfall of both brake lathe repair systems is that they need to be set up perfectly in order to get a high quality repair. Standard models are made with either a one or a three-point system with a dial to help you define the perfect setup. To help eliminate this problem, some have brake lathe parts, such as a computer system, to set up the equipment accurately with very little effort.

Christine O'Kelly writes for the leading brake lathe repair company

Free Tips on How to Taking Care of Mercedes-Benz Brake System

The Mercedes master cylinder that is usually used for Mercedes vehicles are manufactured by Girling, ATE, and Bendix. These master cylinders utilized two or three-chamber reservoirs, a level sensor contact built into each chamber. In times when brake fluid level is low or when there is pressure differential between two brake circuits caused by loss of fluid in either circuit, a warning light is activated.

The series 190, 420, and 500 make use of floating type front disc brake calipers while the other Benz models especially those with parking brakes and are cable actuated in rear brake rotor calipers utilizes non-floating type. All Mercedes cars have brake pad wear indicators and differential pressure warning indicator. The 420 and 500 series have inner pads only while the Anti-Lock Brake System is offered as a standard feature on the 420SEL, 300 and 560 series and optional for the 190 series. For the diesel models a vacuum pump is incorporated to provide vacuum to the power brake unit. Adjusting Pedal Height The height of the pedal measured from pedal pad to pedal stop should be 150mm.

To get the correct pedal height adjust the loosen lock nuts and turn stop light switch afterwards tighten lock nuts and pedal free play 5-15 mm. Above the brake pedal is the stoplight switch, loosen lock nuts and adjust switch in such a way that the contact button extends 6-8mm and then afterwards tighten lock nuts.

Parking Brake

1. Before raising the vehicle it is best to remove only one lug bolt at each rear wheel.

2. Try to rotate wheel until lug bolt hole is positioned over parking brake adjuster at an angle of 45 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle and 90 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle with starting torque compensation. And remember that parking brake must be adjusted if the brake pedal can be depressed by more than 2 steps of 6 without any braking effect. Try not to try to alter screw on parking brake intermediate lever since these screws are for balancing cable lengths only.

3. using a screwdriver inserted through the lug bolt hole, hand turn the adjuster until rear wheel can no longer be turned, back off the adjuster until it can be turned without the dragging the wheel.

Checking the Brake Warning Light

1. On the dash is mounted a dual warning light, try to turn the ignition on. Normally you will see a light glowing once parking brake lever is pulled tone notch and goes off when brake lever is full released.

2. To test the circuit warning sensor, again turn on the ignition, release the parking brake and make sure that the light is off. Open the bleeder screw on one wheel and depress brake pedal and the light should light up.

3. Close the bleeder screw, refill the brake fluid and bleed system. Make sure also that light goes out after testing and if the light didn’t turn off then the differential pressure pin of the Mercedes brake master cylinder should be reset.

Free Tips on Torque Converter Operation

The torque converter is one of the least understood components in an automatic transmission equipped vehicle. I will attempt to explain what it does and how it does it.
The torque converter has a few different functions.
We first need to understand that there is no direct link between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft (except in the case of a lock up style converter, but we'll talk about that later). This means that the first function of the converter is to connect the crankshaft and the input shaft so the engine can move the vehicle; this is accomplished through the utilization of a fluidic coupling effect.
The torque converter also replaces the clutch that is required in a manual transmission; this is how an automatic transmission vehicle can come to a stop while still being in gear without stalling the engine.

The torque converter also acts as a torque multiplier, or extra gear ratio, to help the car get moving from a stop. In modern day converters this theoretical ratio is anywhere between 2:1 and 3:1.
Torque converters consist of 4 major components that we need to concern ourselves with for the purpose of explanation.
The first component, which is the driving member, is called the impeller or "pump". It is connected directly to the inside of the converter housing and because the converter is bolted to the flexplate, it is turning anytime that the engine rotates.
The next component, which is the output or driven member, is called the turbine. The transmission's input shaft is splined to it. The turbine is not physically connected to the to the converter housing and can rotate completely independently of it.
The third component is the stator assembly; its function is to redirect the flow of fluid between the impeller and the turbine, which gives the torque multiplication effect from a standstill.
The final component is the lock up clutch. At highway speeds this clutch can be applied and will provide a direct mechanical link between the crankshaft and input shaft, which will result in 100% efficiency between the engine and transmission. The application of this clutch is usually controlled by the vehicle's computer activating a solenoid in the transmission.
Here's how it all works. For the sake of simplicity, I will use the common analogy of two fans which represent the impeller and the turbine. Let's say that we have two fans facing each other and we turn only one of them on- the other fan will soon begin to move.

Rods of Power: the Acura Tie Rods

Travelling can be very tiring. The situation could be worse behind the driving wheel. Because of this, the driver needs a steady aid to provide a him or her a comfortable ride. A smooth and steady navigation is possible with the use of highly efficient tie rods rods. Tie rods are simply defined as slender rods that are structural in design. They are capable of carrying compact and tensile load. Their applications include airplanes, bridges, tanks, and towers among many others. Tie rods also play a vital role in automobile steering systems.



Acura cars are known to include specifically engineered Acura tie rods. Since the steering linkage is made up of interconnected parts – which move every time the steering wheel is turned -- the rotating movement of the steering column activates mechanisms inside the steering box. Adjoining key parts together, the Acura tie rods pass on the steering wheel's motion regardless of the linkage's angle or the vibration from the road. Movement from the steering box are picked up by the tie rods, causing the steering knuckles to turn the wheels.

Naturally, efficient tie rods transmit force from the steering center link or the rack gear to the steering knuckle, causing the wheels to turn. The outer tie rod end connects with an adjusting sleeve, which allows the tie rod length to be adjustable. Any bend on the rods would make steering impossible. The wheels would not maneuver because no force is applied to the center link. Ultimately, the wheel alignment is altered, affecting the overall vehicular motion.

Acura prioritizes the production of their tie rods under meticulous eyes. Before installing the Acura tie rods to its vehicles' steering system, the Japanese-bred luxury carmaker makes sure that the rods are properly structured so as to provide optimum performance to carry out their purpose. This practice has perhaps, made Acura's automobiles highly recognized in the automotive industry.

Spark Plug Magic

So it’s time for a tune-up & you’re interested in better mileage and perhaps a bit more power. You’d like to maximize both the expense of the spark plugs and the time spent changing them. Well here’s a magic trick that has shown up to 22% increases in torque and similar increases in fuel efficiency. While many of you have heard about indexing the spark plugs, we're going to go even further and turn the plugs into pencil torches This will make it virtually impossible to have misfires and promote a much more complete combustion, yielding more torque and mileage.
The project starts with a brand new set of copper core spark plugs.
This trick doesn not work with platinum, iridium, split, halo, multi-electrode, or anything other than conventional spark plugs. You will need a drill, drill press, or lathe (which is what I use), with a drill bit the same diameter as your center electrode (3/32” for the illustrated set) and a 1/16” bit. If using the drill or drill press, you should have a vise suitable for holding the spark plug while drilling. As a last resort, Vise Grips might work (though I never tried that). Never ever hold the spark plug with your hand while drilling!! Of course you’ll need your handy-dandy spark plug gapping tool, a set of pliers, either sand paper or an ignition file, and a fine tip magic marker.



For the indexing, you will probably need indexing washers. These are varying thickness copper washers available from Jegs, Summit, and many auto parts stores. There are 3 different types of indexing washers. There is the standard 14 mm flat washer, the tapered washer, and the less common flat 18 mm washer. Be sure to purchase the correct type for your engine.
First bend the outer electrode away with your pliers, exposing the center electrode. With your larger drill bit, cup the end of the center electrode creating a satellite dish effect. Be careful to drill it dead center, and only drill deep enough to create the cup. On turbo and extreme performance engines, use a drill bit a xize or 2 smaller than the center electrode. The sharp edge left by the larger bit may create hot spots and lead to detonation under load.
The next step is to bend the outer electrode back into place and get it centered. You want it centered not only side to side, but also front to rear. You should have the tip of the outer electrode about even with the edge of the center electrode. It is not necessary to gap it at this point, just get it close by eyeball. Next drill a 1/16” hole dead center in the outer electrode. It is more critical on high output engines to get the hole dead center side-to-side, as offset holes lead to thin spots that will hold heat better, and again lead to detonation. Notice how little of the drill bit actually sticks out of the chuck. It is really easy to break these small bits. Using the file or sand paper, debur all sharp edges. Run the bit through the outer electrode hole again to clean out any small pieces of metal that may have worked their way in while deburring. Now it’s time to properly gap and blueprint the plug. The outer electrode should be centered over the center electrode, should be square, and should have the 1/16" hole centered over the cup in the center electrode.
How this works is the center electrode will act like a satellite dish and “broadcast” the flame kernel toward the outer electrode. The 1/16” hole in the outer electrode will allow this flame to pass right through, giving the pencil torch effect. The pencil torch flame then extends into the swirling air-fuel charge and ignites far more fuel than would otherwise ignite, and it ignites it earlier in the combustion cycle so that the chemical energy in the fuel is more completely converted into heat energy in the cylinder when and where it counts!
After we've modified the spark plugs, we need to install them. Low and behold, there is a magic way of doing this that yields additional gains as well. You want the outer electrode to face the head, exposing 350 degrees of the cylinder’s combustion chamber to the spark. A little towards the exhaust valve is acceptable. Using your magic marker, draw a line along the side of the spark plug that will indicate where the outer electrode connects to the body of the plug. This allows you to see the position of the outer electrode without pulling the cylinder head. Start by installing your spark plugs one at a time in the first cylinder until the line you drew indicates that the outer electrode is facing correctly. Then move to the next cylinder. I find that on a V-8 I can usually index about 5 plugs before needing the indexing washers.

Learning About Brakes

More than acceleration, the other important thing that one's car must be able to do is to stop when necessary. This is a very essential element for something as big and fast as a moving car. Knowing that the driver can control his car by stopping it fosters a safer environment for everybody on the road. Hence, car brakes are more than ever utilized to secure the occupants of the vehicle. The smart driver must ensure the efficiency of his car brakes, especially if he is not driving a Mazda. With the Japanese heritage of ingenuity, it is easy to say that the Mazda Brakes are failsafe.
Depressing on the brake pedal is actually a process of transmitting the force from the foot to the brakes through a fluid. But since the actual brakes require a much greater force than one could apply with his leg, the car must also multiply the force of the foot. This happens through Mechanical Advantage and the Hydraulic Force Multiplication. Next, the brakes will transmit the force to the tires using friction, while the tires transmit that force on the road through friction as well. Like the rest of the Mazda Brake parts, the Mazda Brakes are able to pull this kind of stunt because their components are made of the most durable materials that were gathered through the latest technology.

Going deeper into the Mazda Brakes, one should note that the brake cylinder's diameter is thrice the pedal cylinder's diameter. The force is further multiplied by nine. In short, the force of the foot is increased to 36. As such, if 10 pounds of force is exerted on the pedal, then the wheel squeezing the brake pads will yield 360 pounds.
However, this simple system poses a few problems. One is what happens if it leaks. Leaks usually work slowly, so eventually there will not be enough fluid left to fill the brake cylinder, preventing the brakes from functioning properly. In case of a major leak, all of the fluid will squirt out the leak the first time one uses the brakes. This will cause a complete brake failure. So one must take good care of his car brakes, just like how the car brakes would take good care of him.

Repair Or Replace Your Automotive Headliner

There have been some temporary headliner solutions offered in the past, such as those "twist in pins", but they are at best a temporary solution to repair the problem and will actually damage the headliner board, and cause more problems when it comes time for a more permanent repair.
The best solution to repairing your headliner is to completely replace the fabric of your headliner. You could have that done professionally, although that would be a rather expensive solution. A much more affordable solution would be a "do-it-yourself headliner repair kit" that make this project something that anyone can do.
At stockinteriors.com we also offer a complete replacement for the entire headliner board, which comes pre-covered with the fabric color of your choice. This option is only avaialble for a very small selection of automobiles.

Most cars, trucks, vans and SUVs after the mid 70's have what is called a fabric covered headliner board. This headliner board is usually made from a pressed material, much like cardboard. That headliner board is then covered with a foam backed headliner fabric, which is glued directly to the board. In most cases, the sagging or separation occurs when the headliner fabric separates from the foam.
When looking for a do-it-yourself headliner repair kit, look for several things. First of all, make sure you are buying a quality material. Most headliner fabric comes with either 1/8 inch thick foam, or 1/4 inch thick foam. It is usually best to go with the 1/4 inch thick foam as it is more durable and will give a better finished look. Make sure that wherever you buy, you can get the exact color that you want; a reliable headliner store will send you samples to match your existing headliner. Keep in mind, that time and sunlight can fade your headliner, so look for a piece that has been protected from the sun when matching colors.
Also, make sure that you order the correct size headliner repair kit. Cars, trucks, van and SUVs all come in different widths and lengths, so you want to make sure you buy enough material to cover the entire headliner board. If in doubt, always buy a little extra, as it is easy to cut it smaller, but impossible to make it larger once you buy it.
And last of all, make sure the headliner repair kit you buy comes with enough glue adhesive. Typically, headliner kits include a spray contact adhesive. Usually one can is enough for a small van/SUV or car, but anything larger will require 2 cans of glue. Make sure the glue is specifically made for headliner fabrics and the high temperatures that can build inside of a vehicle.
Without going into too many details, the general idea of a do-it-yourself headliner repair kit, is that you scrape the existing headliner material off your old headliner board and glue on the new material. Most quality headliner kits will come with the detailed instructions on how to do this. The hardest part of the job may be getting the headliner board out of your car; be sure not to damage the board in any way, or you will be in worse shape then when you started. And remember that the smoother you can get the headliner board before you glue the new fabric in place, the better the end result will look.
As you can see, replacing or repairing your headliner material is a job that anyone can do. You just need a little time and patience and you can repair that ugly and dangerous headliner.

Clutch disc: Key to performance-grade Acura Transmission

Clutch discs are key components of the Acura transmission system. At just a step on the clutch pedal, one set of the Acura clutch discs mounted on the transmission gears engages the other on the rotating shaft of the gearbox. Once both sets of Acura clutch discs are engaged, the torque from the gearbox gets transferred to the drive wheels and drives the car. Generally, the clutch system links two shafts so that they can either be engaged and spin at the same speed, or disengaged and spin at different speeds. It likewise gives drivers full control of the car by streamlining the flow of torque and subjecting it to the input of the driver on the clutch pedal.

Depending on whether a manual or automatic transmission system is installed on an Acura, there are various Acura clutch designs available in the automotive industry. Majority of them are based on a design of two or more friction discs pressed tightly together or against a flywheel using springs. The friction materials used on Acura clutch discs are similar to the material used in brake shoes and pads and usually contain asbestos. Most car owners prefer the manual over automatic transmission because it offers greater control over speed selection for various conditions. When equipped with a manual transmission, the Acura offers greater fuel efficiency and clutch disc slippage is further minimized.
Because of its importance in a clutch assembly, the type of Acura clutch discs often necessitates the need for different clutch kits to be made available in the industry. Trucks and muscle cars generally use a clutch disc with a ceramic friction material, equipping their car with a clutch assembly that has increased traction. These so-called performance clutch discs have high traction and heat tolerance that allows for quicker shifting, but comes at the cost of rough engagements. Smooth performance, on the other hand, is what street cars and sedans require. And this is exactly what the asbestos friction compound of replacement Acura clutch discs provide. Clutch disc choices depend on the power grade of a particular Acura make.

Snuff Out Exhaust with an Acura Catalytic Converter

Exhaust is a natural byproduct of an internal combustion engine used on contemporary vehicles like the Acura. It is indispensable during combustion, but is not exactly impossible to wipe out. The internal combustion engine of the Acura is typically outfitted with a device called catalytic converter that has been proven to effectively reduce the toxic gases emission of the vehicle. "Cat" or "CatCon" in common parlance, the Acura catalytic converter is one of the stopgap Acura parts aimed at eradicating the vehicle’s exhaust output.

Traces of unburned elements called hydrocarbons, if allowed to exit intact from the Acura exhaust, will do a lot of damage to the environment. To counter this threat, the Acura catalytic converter uses an innovative process of setting off chemical reactions that burn some types of pollutants, molecule by molecule, while trapping the remaining pollutants inside. The catalytic converters for Acura cars are manufactured in two varieties: the ceramic and honeycomb converters.

The ceramic-type Acura CatCon is the most-used type among modern vehicles because it incorporates the function of the other and presents new and more effective method of oxidizing the exhaust. In treating the exhaust, the converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidation catalyst. It consists of a ceramic structure coated with a metal catalyst, usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium, which turns unburnt hydrocarbons into carbon dioxide and water, and nitrogen oxides into nitrogen and oxygen, through a chemical process called oxidation. The converter works on a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of catalyst to the exhaust stream while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required.

When looking for an Acura catalytic converter, it is important to consider the makeup of the CatCon. The precious metal material in the catalyst is the main cleaning agent of the catalytic converter. Exhausts are treated well only if the catalysts are up to specs, for more common and cheaper types like nickel and copper are being manufactured although they have been proven to cause toxin formation on the exhaust pipe. To make sure that it is a reliable and safe Acura catalytic converter, ask for effectivity-tested catalysts made of platinum or palladium or rhodium. Another consideration is the washcoat on the catalytic converter. Washcoat does not only help the catalyst filter the fume considerably, it also increases the surface area of the catalyst, resulting in more oxidation results out of the Acura catalytic converter.

Coil Springs for Comfortable Acura Rides

The helical wound steel in the Acura suspension called coil spring is the car's dampener against upward and downward bounce. It is an integral suspension system part. In tandem with shock absorbers, which absorb the bounce, the Acura coil spring helps snuff out the bumps and bounces that go into the car chassis. Acura coil springs, in general, support the weight of the car. They are what is referred to as compression spring. In the case of the Acura suspension, they lift the car from the ground and at the same time constricts to accommodate the up-and-down movement of bounce.

Acura coil springs are typically located between the vehicle's control arm and chassis, the axle and chassis, or around a MacPherson strut. They reinforce the suspension to keep bounce and chassis flex away from the vehicle cabin.
Corollary to the absorption of the up-and-down motions, the Acura coil spring at the same time protects the suspension assembly from disintegrating. Suspension system parts like the strut assembly and constant velocity joints, which are essential in maintaining car stability on the road, are attached to the car chassis through mounts and boots. With the bounce lessened by the Acura coil spring, drive train parts remain fixed on the chassis and their performance is not compromised. Acura coil springs are available in conical or spiral wound designs, and are wound with either variable pitch spacing or variable thickness wire.
The types of coil spring fabrication are essential to the performance of the suspension system. They determine the strength of the steel and the capacity of the Acura coil spring to take the brunt of car load and bounce. Acura coil springs are traditionally annealed and tempered with steel fabrications. It sags over time, but the coil springs can be repacked and reset. The automotive industry, however, does not support this stopgap solution. Repacked and reset Acura coil springs often have overused wound steel. Once the winding is annealed again, though the capacity of the Acura coil springs to resist compression remains as that of brand-new ones, it will only remain so for a shorter duration.

Charging Up! The alternator

If there is one thing that has been invented to allow car batteries to work wonders, it is the alternator. The alternator is the part responsible for directing the power charge from the battery to the car's engine. For those who wish to better understand how alternators work, there’s no better time than now. An alternator is an electromechanical device that converts mechanical energy to alternating current electrical energy. While a number of alternators use a rotating magnetic field others utilize linear alternators on occasion. In all actuality, any kind of AC generator can be termed an alternator. However, the word often pertains to small rotating machines that operate by internal combustion engines.

Charging the battery as well as powering the car's electric system while the engine is running are the two main functions of an Acura Alternator. Since alternators do not employ commutators, these auto assembly parts have the great advantage over direct-current generators. Without commutators, the alternators are simpler and lighter as well as less costly, and more rugged than a DC generator. The robust constitution of Acura Alternators makes it possible for these devices to turn at twice the engine speed. This affects system performance positively when the engine is idling. It was about 1960 when the general availability of low-cost solid-state diodes finally gave auto manufacturers a reason to opt for alternators over DC generators.
Acura Alternators are outfitted with a voltage regulator into them. The device works by regulating the small field current so as to generate constant voltage at the stator output. The field current is much smaller than the output current of the alternator. For example, a 70-amp alternator may need only 2 amps of field current. However, fan cooling loss, bearing loss as well as copper loss and instances when voltage drops in the diode bridges, tends to wear alternators out. If this occurs, one should ask for professional help in having a new Acura Alternator installed. The efficiency as well as quality and reliability for which Acura Alternators are known for have made these parts commercially successful in the auto parts market. With such products in tow, it's no wonder that Acura auto parts have earned a reputation for being durable parts that, when used, greatly enhance the performance of one’s Acura car model.

Diesel Performance Parts

Using diesel performance parts on your diesel engine can help you dramatically boost the torque and horsepower of your engine. On the other hand, if you required a gasoline-powered engine to yield comparable power, you would have to spend big money on a lot of engine work. Even so, gasoline engines driven on the streets cannot readily experience the same power as an enhanced diesel engine. This is because of the inherent differences between a diesel engine and its gasoline counterpart.

Diesel engines are capable of yielding power equivalent to the kind of fuel you use; only smoke, excess fuel and the temperature of the exhaust gas limit the strength of the engine. Therefore, a diesel engine that is clogged with excessive smoke or excessive fuel dies an early death. This may seem ironical but excessive fuel is the main cause of the black cloud that comes out from diesel-powered vehicles. Additionally, too much fuel can damage the engine.

However, the right combination of fuel, fuel flow and air control can make diesel engines perform their best. Diesel performance parts do just that. Even a single performance enhancing part can improve torque and horsepower significantly. What’s more, installation takes just a few minutes. In fact, diesel performance parts are nothing more than small computer chips or modules that are plugged into the engine management system of diesel engines. These chips monitor the flow of fuel and instruct the computer within the engine to inject more fuel, when required.
Diesel performance parts can be of different types, and they perform different functions. For example, the Exhaust Gas Temps Gauge measures the temperature of combustion gases in the cylinder. This keeps your engines in good order. A performance exhaust is another good upgrade. This regulates the free flow of fuel and helps release additional horsepower and torque. Some other diesel performance parts include Twin Turbo conversions, larger turbochargers and larger intercoolers. Of course, a good performance chip is perhaps the best performance of engine part if you are looking for maximum return on your investment.
The advantages of using diesel performance parts are: 1. Significant increase in horsepower and torque. 2. Fuel mileage increases 3. Easy and quick to install. 4. Can be used to offer additional horsepower by affecting a simple change in the setting of the main computer chip. 5. Does away with the need to reprogram the computer chip within the vehicle.