Guide To Change Your Car's Battery

To keep up with your vehicles maintenance it is very important to keep up with a couple things. You want to make sure you take care of your vehicle because if you don’t it will not last as long as it should. You can run your vehicle a long way if you keep up with your vehicle’s maintenance. There are a few things that you need to take care of and change every so often. One of these things is your car’s battery. Changing your car’s battery is something everyone has to do. All vehicles are different and need different batteries. If your car has been running funny and it isn’t easy for it to start you may need to change the battery. Not sure how to change your vehicle’s battery? Read below and you will learn how to do it yourself in no time.
Benefits for learning how to change your vehicles battery: You don’t have to worry about any inconvenience that comes with changing your car’s battery. You don’t need to take it to the shop and follow the hours that the auto mechanics have. Also you can save a ton of money by learning how to do it yourself.
Step by step instructions for changing your car’s battery:
1. First of you all you will want to think about recycling your car’s dead battery. Recycling is a great thing to do.
2. Now make sure your vehicle is turned off and that your car is in park.
3. Lift your car’s hood and look for the battery.
4. Once you’ve spotted the battery you will want to disconnect the cable terminals.
5. Not sure what the cable terminals are? Look for the cables that are black and red (negative and positive).
6. Now you want to dismantle the bracket or frame that holds the battery into position.
7. Once you’ve dismantled them, your battery shouldn’t be tied down. You should be able to take out your car’s battery.
8. Once you see your cable terminals, you can determine whether they are dirty or dusty. If they are you will want to wipe them with water, a wire brush and baking soda.
9. Take a wire brush and graze the inside of the cable terminal. You will want to do this because once you place the new battery in the spot you want to expose the new cables to clean metal instead of dirty.
10. Now place the battery into your vehicle. Make sure you connect the negative and positive cables to the battery. (Note: If they can move easily they aren’t tight enough.)
11. You should be all set. To test your new battery, turn on your vehicle and see if it starts. If it doesn’t star t the first time just go through the steps again and see what mistakes were made.
Changing your vehicle’s car battery is very easy. Changing a battery may sound intimidating but it is really easy. When your vehicle acts up most people just take it to the shop regardless. You want to avoid doing this because you can save a ton of money and learn a few things.

Spark Plug Magic

So it’s time for a tune-up & you’re interested in better mileage and perhaps a bit more power. You’d like to maximize both the expense of the spark plugs and the time spent changing them. Well here’s a magic trick that has shown up to 22% increases in torque and similar increases in fuel efficiency. While many of you have heard about indexing the spark plugs, we're going to go even further and turn the plugs into pencil torches This will make it virtually impossible to have misfires and promote a much more complete combustion, yielding more torque and mileage.
The project starts with a brand new set of copper core spark plugs.
This trick doesn not work with platinum, iridium, split, halo, multi-electrode, or anything other than conventional spark plugs. You will need a drill, drill press, or lathe (which is what I use), with a drill bit the same diameter as your center electrode (3/32” for the illustrated set) and a 1/16” bit. If using the drill or drill press, you should have a vise suitable for holding the spark plug while drilling. As a last resort, Vise Grips might work (though I never tried that). Never ever hold the spark plug with your hand while drilling!! Of course you’ll need your handy-dandy spark plug gapping tool, a set of pliers, either sand paper or an ignition file, and a fine tip magic marker.



For the indexing, you will probably need indexing washers. These are varying thickness copper washers available from Jegs, Summit, and many auto parts stores. There are 3 different types of indexing washers. There is the standard 14 mm flat washer, the tapered washer, and the less common flat 18 mm washer. Be sure to purchase the correct type for your engine.
First bend the outer electrode away with your pliers, exposing the center electrode. With your larger drill bit, cup the end of the center electrode creating a satellite dish effect. Be careful to drill it dead center, and only drill deep enough to create the cup. On turbo and extreme performance engines, use a drill bit a xize or 2 smaller than the center electrode. The sharp edge left by the larger bit may create hot spots and lead to detonation under load.
The next step is to bend the outer electrode back into place and get it centered. You want it centered not only side to side, but also front to rear. You should have the tip of the outer electrode about even with the edge of the center electrode. It is not necessary to gap it at this point, just get it close by eyeball. Next drill a 1/16” hole dead center in the outer electrode. It is more critical on high output engines to get the hole dead center side-to-side, as offset holes lead to thin spots that will hold heat better, and again lead to detonation. Notice how little of the drill bit actually sticks out of the chuck. It is really easy to break these small bits. Using the file or sand paper, debur all sharp edges. Run the bit through the outer electrode hole again to clean out any small pieces of metal that may have worked their way in while deburring. Now it’s time to properly gap and blueprint the plug. The outer electrode should be centered over the center electrode, should be square, and should have the 1/16" hole centered over the cup in the center electrode.
How this works is the center electrode will act like a satellite dish and “broadcast” the flame kernel toward the outer electrode. The 1/16” hole in the outer electrode will allow this flame to pass right through, giving the pencil torch effect. The pencil torch flame then extends into the swirling air-fuel charge and ignites far more fuel than would otherwise ignite, and it ignites it earlier in the combustion cycle so that the chemical energy in the fuel is more completely converted into heat energy in the cylinder when and where it counts!
After we've modified the spark plugs, we need to install them. Low and behold, there is a magic way of doing this that yields additional gains as well. You want the outer electrode to face the head, exposing 350 degrees of the cylinder’s combustion chamber to the spark. A little towards the exhaust valve is acceptable. Using your magic marker, draw a line along the side of the spark plug that will indicate where the outer electrode connects to the body of the plug. This allows you to see the position of the outer electrode without pulling the cylinder head. Start by installing your spark plugs one at a time in the first cylinder until the line you drew indicates that the outer electrode is facing correctly. Then move to the next cylinder. I find that on a V-8 I can usually index about 5 plugs before needing the indexing washers.

Car Tips on How to Replace Spark Plugs

Changing spark plugs is a large part of a regular tune up, but did you know that you can perform this easy maintenance job yourself? A spark plug is basically a high voltage bridge that electricity passes through. They are very cheap to buy and easy to install. It does not hurt to replace them each year; doing so can increase the efficiency of your engine and even help out with gas mileage a bit. This procedure is not difficult as long as you follow the directions. The tools you will need include a ratchet wrench, a 12 inch socket extension, and a spark plug socket for your vehicle.

Your spark plugs may be easily located if you follow the thick, black cables As a rule of thumb, 4 cylinder engines have their spark plugs at the top of the engine in a row, 8 cylinder engines have their spark plugs 4 on each side, and 6 cylinder engines can have them either way. Spark plugs are placed in a specific order, so it does matter in which order you place them and take them out. Starting at the end of the row, grab the spark plug as close to the engine as you can, and pull it out. If you grab them too far up you could damage the cord and have to replace it.
If you have not already done so, place the spark plug socket and extension on your ratchet. Inside of the spark plug socket, you should see black rubber or foam on the other end. This is useful because it holds the spark plug into place as you take it out of the engine. Set your ratchet to loosen, and place it over the end of the plug. You can now easily remove the plug. After you have removed each plug, it is a good idea to examine it. There should be a little grime and dirt on the end, but if you have too much it could be a sign of trouble.
When you buy spark plugs for your cars nowadays, they will usually come already gapped. This makes things a whole lot easier. In order to place the new spark plug in the hole, place the plug wire end of the plug into the socket. Now hold the extension and place it in as far as it will go. Be careful while doing so though, as you don't want to damage the plug. You can now screw in the new plug using just your hands. You will only be able to do this to a point though, and then you will have to use the wrench. Once it is in, you may put the wire back on.
Now once the first one is done, you just have to repeat the process with each of the remaining spark plugs. Don't worry; it gets easier each time you do it. If you pulled out all of the spark plugs at once, you will have a difficult time knowing which cable goes where and things will not go well if you place the wrong cables on the plugs.